THE WORLD'S MOST PUNCHABLE CLOWN (SCRATCH VERSION)
DARK SAMUS SCRATCH
MARIO'S HAT SCRATCH
FURTHEST SCRATCH (ALTERNATIVELY: SEXYSCRATCH)
PS: IMPROMPTU SCRATCH
CAN'T THINK OF A NAME
Cleric of Zeal
The Random One
Lord Bob Bree
The One Guy
The 13th Troll
(Most of the credit for compiling this list goes to Walliard)
Have you ever thought to yourself, man I wish I had an awesome scratch avatar like all the cool kids
Every time someone uses a scratch avatar I come one step closer to world domination
WELL NOW YOU CAN, THANKS TO TESSERACT'S TOTALLY RAD TUTORIAL
First and most obviously, you need a sprite. You may or may not want to remove certain facial features.
If you're wondering, Doc Scratch's colors are white, #BDBDBD, #08FF4A, and #19A519, though you'll probably end up adding different shades of gray. Becquerel is just white with a black outline.
Make sure to leave lots of space around the sprite.
Make a copy of frame 1 and fill it completely with black. Add yellow lightning around the edges. It's much easier and will probably look better if you copy the lightning from frame 2 of the Doc Scratch sprite linked above rather than drawing it yourself.
More lightning, in the same spots as the lightning in the previous frame. This time use the normal sprite you made in frame 1 rather than the black one from frame 2.
More lightning effect, using the normal sprite.
The exact same thing as frame 1.
Make a copy of the main sprite, scale to 105%, and fill with white. As with all image manipulations, it helps if there is no anti-aliasing.
In-comic, this is a transparent (I haven't bothered to figure out the opacity) version of Frame 6 on top of a black sprite. However, if you want to save headaches, it's usually better to do it a different way. Create a copy of the original sprite and fill with #292929. Now select the pixels in frame 7 and remove from the selection all the pixels in frame 6. Fill the selection with black. This normally will only affect a few pixels around the edges of the sprite.
Or if you aren't obsessive about this you can just fill the sprite with #292929 and be done with it. But if you're like me, and you probably are, you have to do it perfectly.
This is where the hard part starts. Make another copy of the original sprite, scale to 108%, and again it helps a lot if there is no anti-aliasing.
Now you're going to need to find a flicker effect. This is often extremely annoying! It's pretty hard to piece together the actual effect, and even harder if you're not using a smaller sprite like Doc Snout. I personally use the one here.
Use the sprite you just scaled up to make a cutout of the first frame of this animation.
Create yet another copy of the first layer, scale to 105%. Use this to cut out frame 2 of the flicker animation.
New copy don't scale frame 3 cutout.
Keep doing what you've been doing.
Do the same thing again, except this time set the opacity to 67%. Create another copy of the original sprite underneath.
Do the flicker effect one last time, this time set the opacity to 33%. Create a copy of the original sprite like you did in Frame 13.
Now crop the image, and make sure you didn't cut off anything or you'll have to do all that over again.
Set the delay for all frames to .05 seconds, except for frames 1 and 5. These can have any delay you want. For reference, Doc Scratch's introduction panel uses 1 second for both, Doc Snout uses 2 seconds for both, and the wiki uses 3.5 and 4.5 seconds.
And you're done! Yay.
ALTERNATE TUTORIAL BY ARCANA
GIMP TUTORIAL BY STROKEND
The first thing you need is the image you want to scratchify. It helps to either give it a solid-colored background, or to remove a background. Right click the image, go to IMAGE, then MODE, then click RGB so that you can use all colors available.
The second thing you need is the green lightning, or whatever else you're using to make your flashy effect. I have it ripped and stored at http://i52.tinypic.com/4l1xtu.gif for your convenience.
Now, make sure your picture has enough empty space to support the growth that will be applied to three of the frames--if you aren't sure if it's big enough, make it bigger just in case. You can do this by right clicking the image, going down to IMAGE, and then clicking canvas size. The layers will not change along with it, so make sure you right click the layer and then click "Layer to image size". This will leave some blank space that may be a different color than the background you want--if it does, just use the eyedropper (on the left) to pick up the background color, and the paint bucket (also on the left) to fill it in. Something to keep in mind is that if your image has a side (top and bottom included) cut off, you DON'T want to leave blank space beyond that side. Also keep in mind that this ruins it if the image is cut off on two opposite sides--try to find one that at most has a corner cut off (ie. left and bottom).
The next step is to duplicate the layer until it says "Copy #12". Since the first two layers don't have those numbers, #12 is actually frame 14, which is what you need (unless you're already a pro at scratching and enjoy making longer flashy fazes). To help, you can go through the frames and rename them Frame 1-14; this will especially help on frames I'll be telling you to jump to in this tutorial.
Once you're ready to start editing the layers, you can follow the tutorials that guide you frame by frame or use my 'shortcuts.' Since you're reading this, I guess you want the shortcuts.
Turn off view (they eyeball on the right window) for all layers. It's not necessary, but it REALLY helps you out here. A quick way to turn them all off is to click the top or bottom layer, hit left a few times, then hit space-down-space-down (replace down with up if you clicked the bottom layer) until you hide them all.
Turn frame six on, then right-click on it on the right window. Click on "Scale Layer." Make sure the chain is connected--if it's severed, click it to connect it. Next, look at the dropdown box. By default it's probably "Pixels." Change it to "Percent." Change the width to 105 and then click on the height box. You may get a funky value just a little bit above or below 105--don't worry. It's just fine. Click on "Scale" and then center the layer (use the move tool on it--you can also select the image window once you select the move tool and then use the arrow keys to move it pixel by pixel. This is useful for counting how far it is from side to side and top to bottom, so that you can center it if it isn't centered by default).
When centering images with sides cut off, keep in mind that for those sides, being 'centered' means being against the canvas edge. For example, if the bottom is cut off, move it up until the bottom aligns with the bottom of the area where you can actually see the layer at (since below there it turns invisible). You may need to zoom in to get it pixel perfect. "Corner Cut" images are actually easiest here--no counting, just side matching.
Turn frame 6 invisible (if you're following my advice on this, always turn inactive layers invisible unless I say otherwise), then turn frame 8 visible (again, active layers become visible unless otherwise stated). Do the same thing you did with frame 6, only this time set the percent to 108 instead of 105.
Repeat with frame 9 at 105%.
If you want, you can add a tiny suffix to layers 6, 8, and 9--"Frame 6-105" "Frame 8-108" and "Frame 9-105" for example. This helps you recognize layers that you need to ignore on the next step.
Go to frame 2 (visibility rules apply here so you can see it) and use the COLOR SELECT TOOL on the left window (it's a hand pointing at either a red square or green square on a square tower of green, red, blue from bottom to top) on the background (even if the background is transparancy). Set your foreground color to black if it isn't already--you can do so by clicking on it and moving the sliders around, or by clicking the tiny black and white squares right next to the bigger color squares. Right click the image, go to select, and then INVERT. This will make you select everything BUT the background. Click the pencil icon (or hit N), set the 'brush' to Circle 19, and scale to 10. This helps you color it in REALLY fast--just color the whole thing. Since you only selected the thing you're scratchefying, nothing else gets colored
Keeping that area selected, 'activate' frame 8. Now, switch over to your GREEN LIGHTNING (you should have both pictures opened). Select all (CTRL+A), then click on frame 3 of it. Copy it (CTRL+C) Go back to your scratching image, and click on the upper left brush tool in the bottom of the right window. It'll be the green lightning. Set your pencil scale to 1 and see if the rectangle covers the whole of your scratch item (NOT the background, just the image). If it doesn't try scale of 2--and keep upping it by one until it's big enough. You SHOULD be able to make it big enough, otherwise your image is too big.
Once you make it big enough, activate layer 10 (yes, without having put lightning on layer , find a 'center point' (ie. the tip of something like a fang or tie) where you will click for each lightning application. (Note: if you don't actually click on frame 10 in the right window, you'll draw on whichever layer is selected. Make sure you don't do that. If you DO, though, you can simply undo it, fortunately)
Activate layer 11, COPY green lightning's layer 4, click on the center point on the scratch picture.
Activate layer 12, copy green lightning's layer 1 ("background"), click the center point of the scratch picture.
Activate layer 13, copy green lightning's layer 2. Set pencil opacity to 67, click on the center point of the scratch picture.
Activate layer 14, copy green lightning's layer 3. Set pencil opacity to 33, click on center point of the picture.
Activate layer 8. COLOR SELECT the background, invert selection. Copy green lightning's layer 1, set opacity to 100. Click scratch picture's center point. It wont be the same pixel as the other layers, but that doesn't matter.
Activate layer 9. Color select the background, invert selection. Copy green lightning's layer 2, click scratch picture's center point. Again, different pixel, but that's okay.
Activate layer 6. Do NOT deselect, or you'll have to reselect it--since it's the exact same area. Switch to Circle 19 and scale 10 again, set color to white. Color the whole selection.
Activate layer 7, color select background, invert select. Set color hex-value to "292929". Color selection. Activate layer 6, use magic wand (or color select if needed) and CONTROL+click the white. Activate layer 7 again and color the selection black.
Activate layer 2, set brush to Circle 3, set scale to 75, and edit the color. Increase RED and GREEN scales to max, and lower BLUE to minimum. This gives you yellow for the lightning--just draw it in place around the edges where you think it'd look neat.
Click layer 3 but do NOT make it visible--you should be seeing layer 2 still. Try drawing over the lightning, perhaps off of it a little, and bigger.
Activate layer 3 and click on layer 4. Draw 'broken' bits of lightning where layer 3's lightning is (this is why you're viewing layer 3 and not 4). If you think you messed up on either of these steps, you can simply undo--GIMP supports a lot of undos.
Right click, go to IMAGE, MODE, then INDEXED. 255 colors should be more than enough. SAVE AS, change the name if you want, but make the extension .gif if it isn't already. Even if it was already a .gif and had the name you still want it to have, you still need to SAVE AS for the next few steps.
If it asks you to crop layers, agree. Save as animation. When you reach a screen where you can add a comment, go to where it says how many milliseconds to show each frame and change that to 50. Also, where it says "Frame Disposal where Unspecified," set it to "One frame per layer (replace)".
CLOSE the image, then open it back up. This renames all the frames so that they're numbered, show how long they last, AND so that they replace the previous frame. Go to Frame 1 and change it to something like 1500ms (1.5 seconds), then Frame 5 to something like 1000ms (1 second). That's it!
(Watch the animation twice and behold the horror, as well)
Originally Posted by Z1P~PZpQ
Originally Posted by The One Guy
Originally Posted by Steev
Originally Posted by Esrever
Originally Posted by Shadow of the Lotus
Wait a minute...
Originally Posted by RLabs
Originally Posted by Aduross
> Everyone: Engage in a big talky party.
Originally Posted by Z1P~PZpQ
Originally Posted by Optimus Prime Minister
Also, I made this in MSPaint in 10 minutes
Did you know that Babydave gets paid every time he is used in a manip due to royalties? Ever since Scratchifying became the new hit thing, Babydave has not been able to purchase food. He's currently homeless, and his loss of popularity has led him to an addiction to alcohol to get over his grief. The only thing he has to cling onto now is his hope that someday he will be used in manips again. So please guys, help Babydave out. You owe it to him.
Originally Posted by Z1P~PZpQ
Originally Posted by RLabs
Originally Posted by Esrever
How Do I Live Without You...
Originally Posted by Loyal
Originally Posted by Tychoknife
> Feferi: Captchalogue nearest Horrorterror and hug it.
Just before you can grab one, the powerful OG'LYTHOGUKL concealed in their underbellies become activated, and two of them get all tangled up with each other playfully.
God I can't stay mad at Noir.
He's like when a tiny puppy murders a squirrel and brings the corpse into your house as a present to you and it's wagging its tail and is SO PROUD of itself.
Then it goes into your house, tears your couch apart, and shits on all of your carpets.