Welcome to the Image Manipulation thread! This is the place for MSPA-themed manips; edited images from the comic and outside images edited with an MSPA theme are fine. Sprite edits are welcomed so long as they are of existing characters; any edits based on your own characters most likely belong in the Trollslum thread.
This is excellent for those of you who like compact sigs.
And now for the FAQ!
Q: Aww gee whiz Chonks how can I be a certified member too?
A: If you are reading this right now then you already are one!
Q: Golly, I sure want to show I appreciate peoples awesome manips, how do I?
A: Simply quote them and say any variety of "nominated", "nommed", "nom", "OM NOM NOM", or anything similar! It takes 4 nominations to get into the best of thread which you will find below. WARNING! Because people have been nominating so much that it has no value to it anymore, you can now nominate once every 4 pages. If you see someone nominate more than that then kick sand in their eyes and bully them. Make sure that the post you're nominating hasn't already gotten 4 nominations; Otherwise, you're just wasting a post.
Q: What do I do when I get 4 nominations?
A: Just declare "I, -name here-, have recieved four nominations" or something similar and quote the 4 nominations. (And if it goes unnoticed feel free to pm me.)
(Most of the credit for compiling this list goes to Walliard)
SCRATCHIFICATION
Have you ever thought to yourself, man I wish I had an awesome scratch avatar like all the cool kids
i guess they're kind of retro now or something but that's okay i guess
WELL NOW YOU CAN, THANKS TO TESSERACT'S TOTALLY RAD TUTORIAL
First and most obviously, you need a sprite. You may or may not want to remove certain facial features.
If you're wondering, Doc Scratch's colors are white, #BDBDBD, #08FF4A, and #19A519, though you'll probably end up adding different shades of gray. Becquerel is just white with a black outline.
Make sure to leave lots of space around the sprite.
Frame 2:
Make a copy of frame 1 and fill it completely with black. Add yellow lightning around the edges. It's much easier and will probably look better if you copy the lightning from frame 2 of the Doc Scratch sprite linked above rather than drawing it yourself.
Frame 3:
More lightning, in the same spots as the lightning in the previous frame. This time use the normal sprite you made in frame 1 rather than the black one from frame 2.
Frame 4:
More lightning effect, using the normal sprite.
Frame 5:
The exact same thing as frame 1.
Frame 6:
Make a copy of the main sprite, scale to 105%, and fill with white. As with all image manipulations, it helps if there is no anti-aliasing.
Frame 7:
In-comic, this is a transparent (I haven't bothered to figure out the opacity) version of Frame 6 on top of a black sprite. However, if you want to save headaches, it's usually better to do it a different way. Create a copy of the original sprite and fill with #292929. Now select the pixels in frame 7 and remove from the selection all the pixels in frame 6. Fill the selection with black. This normally will only affect a few pixels around the edges of the sprite.
Or if you aren't obsessive about this you can just fill the sprite with #292929 and be done with it. But if you're like me, and you probably are, you have to do it perfectly.
Frame 8:
This is where the hard part starts. Make another copy of the original sprite, scale to 108%, and again it helps a lot if there is no anti-aliasing.
Now you're going to need to find a flicker effect. This is often extremely annoying! It's pretty hard to piece together the actual effect, and even harder if you're not using a smaller sprite like Doc Snout. I personally use the one here.
Use the sprite you just scaled up to make a cutout of the first frame of this animation.
Frame 9:
Create yet another copy of the first layer, scale to 105%. Use this to cut out frame 2 of the flicker animation.
Frame 10:
New copy don't scale frame 3 cutout.
Frame 11:
Keep doing what you've been doing.
Frame 12:
Yep.
Frame 13:
Do the same thing again, except this time set the opacity to 67%. Create another copy of the original sprite underneath.
Frame 14:
Do the flicker effect one last time, this time set the opacity to 33%. Create a copy of the original sprite like you did in Frame 13.
Now crop the image, and make sure you didn't cut off anything or you'll have to do all that over again.
Set the delay for all frames to .05 seconds, except for frames 1 and 5. These can have any delay you want. For reference, Doc Scratch's introduction panel uses 1 second for both, Doc Snout uses 2 seconds for both, and the wiki uses 3.5 and 4.5 seconds.
And you're done! Yay.
ALTERNATE TUTORIAL BY ARCANA
GIMP TUTORIAL BY STROKEND
The first thing you need is the image you want to scratchify. It helps to either give it a solid-colored background, or to remove a background. Right click the image, go to IMAGE, then MODE, then click RGB so that you can use all colors available.
The second thing you need is the green lightning, or whatever else you're using to make your flashy effect. I have it ripped and stored at http://i52.tinypic.com/4l1xtu.gif for your convenience.
Now, make sure your picture has enough empty space to support the growth that will be applied to three of the frames--if you aren't sure if it's big enough, make it bigger just in case. You can do this by right clicking the image, going down to IMAGE, and then clicking canvas size. The layers will not change along with it, so make sure you right click the layer and then click "Layer to image size". This will leave some blank space that may be a different color than the background you want--if it does, just use the eyedropper (on the left) to pick up the background color, and the paint bucket (also on the left) to fill it in. Something to keep in mind is that if your image has a side (top and bottom included) cut off, you DON'T want to leave blank space beyond that side. Also keep in mind that this ruins it if the image is cut off on two opposite sides--try to find one that at most has a corner cut off (ie. left and bottom).
The next step is to duplicate the layer until it says "Copy #12". Since the first two layers don't have those numbers, #12 is actually frame 14, which is what you need (unless you're already a pro at scratching and enjoy making longer flashy fazes). To help, you can go through the frames and rename them Frame 1-14; this will especially help on frames I'll be telling you to jump to in this tutorial.
Once you're ready to start editing the layers, you can follow the tutorials that guide you frame by frame or use my 'shortcuts.' Since you're reading this, I guess you want the shortcuts.
Turn off view (they eyeball on the right window) for all layers. It's not necessary, but it REALLY helps you out here. A quick way to turn them all off is to click the top or bottom layer, hit left a few times, then hit space-down-space-down (replace down with up if you clicked the bottom layer) until you hide them all.
Turn frame six on, then right-click on it on the right window. Click on "Scale Layer." Make sure the chain is connected--if it's severed, click it to connect it. Next, look at the dropdown box. By default it's probably "Pixels." Change it to "Percent." Change the width to 105 and then click on the height box. You may get a funky value just a little bit above or below 105--don't worry. It's just fine. Click on "Scale" and then center the layer (use the move tool on it--you can also select the image window once you select the move tool and then use the arrow keys to move it pixel by pixel. This is useful for counting how far it is from side to side and top to bottom, so that you can center it if it isn't centered by default).
When centering images with sides cut off, keep in mind that for those sides, being 'centered' means being against the canvas edge. For example, if the bottom is cut off, move it up until the bottom aligns with the bottom of the area where you can actually see the layer at (since below there it turns invisible). You may need to zoom in to get it pixel perfect. "Corner Cut" images are actually easiest here--no counting, just side matching.
Turn frame 6 invisible (if you're following my advice on this, always turn inactive layers invisible unless I say otherwise), then turn frame 8 visible (again, active layers become visible unless otherwise stated). Do the same thing you did with frame 6, only this time set the percent to 108 instead of 105.
Repeat with frame 9 at 105%.
If you want, you can add a tiny suffix to layers 6, 8, and 9--"Frame 6-105" "Frame 8-108" and "Frame 9-105" for example. This helps you recognize layers that you need to ignore on the next step.
Go to frame 2 (visibility rules apply here so you can see it) and use the COLOR SELECT TOOL on the left window (it's a hand pointing at either a red square or green square on a square tower of green, red, blue from bottom to top) on the background (even if the background is transparancy). Set your foreground color to black if it isn't already--you can do so by clicking on it and moving the sliders around, or by clicking the tiny black and white squares right next to the bigger color squares. Right click the image, go to select, and then INVERT. This will make you select everything BUT the background. Click the pencil icon (or hit N), set the 'brush' to Circle 19, and scale to 10. This helps you color it in REALLY fast--just color the whole thing. Since you only selected the thing you're scratchefying, nothing else gets colored
Keeping that area selected, 'activate' frame 8. Now, switch over to your GREEN LIGHTNING (you should have both pictures opened). Select all (CTRL+A), then click on frame 3 of it. Copy it (CTRL+C) Go back to your scratching image, and click on the upper left brush tool in the bottom of the right window. It'll be the green lightning. Set your pencil scale to 1 and see if the rectangle covers the whole of your scratch item (NOT the background, just the image). If it doesn't try scale of 2--and keep upping it by one until it's big enough. You SHOULD be able to make it big enough, otherwise your image is too big.
Once you make it big enough, activate layer 10 (yes, without having put lightning on layer , find a 'center point' (ie. the tip of something like a fang or tie) where you will click for each lightning application. (Note: if you don't actually click on frame 10 in the right window, you'll draw on whichever layer is selected. Make sure you don't do that. If you DO, though, you can simply undo it, fortunately)
Activate layer 11, COPY green lightning's layer 4, click on the center point on the scratch picture.
Activate layer 12, copy green lightning's layer 1 ("background"), click the center point of the scratch picture.
Activate layer 13, copy green lightning's layer 2. Set pencil opacity to 67, click on the center point of the scratch picture.
Activate layer 14, copy green lightning's layer 3. Set pencil opacity to 33, click on center point of the picture.
Activate layer 8. COLOR SELECT the background, invert selection. Copy green lightning's layer 1, set opacity to 100. Click scratch picture's center point. It wont be the same pixel as the other layers, but that doesn't matter.
Activate layer 9. Color select the background, invert selection. Copy green lightning's layer 2, click scratch picture's center point. Again, different pixel, but that's okay.
Activate layer 6. Do NOT deselect, or you'll have to reselect it--since it's the exact same area. Switch to Circle 19 and scale 10 again, set color to white. Color the whole selection.
Activate layer 7, color select background, invert select. Set color hex-value to "292929". Color selection. Activate layer 6, use magic wand (or color select if needed) and CONTROL+click the white. Activate layer 7 again and color the selection black.
Activate layer 2, set brush to Circle 3, set scale to 75, and edit the color. Increase RED and GREEN scales to max, and lower BLUE to minimum. This gives you yellow for the lightning--just draw it in place around the edges where you think it'd look neat.
Click layer 3 but do NOT make it visible--you should be seeing layer 2 still. Try drawing over the lightning, perhaps off of it a little, and bigger.
Activate layer 3 and click on layer 4. Draw 'broken' bits of lightning where layer 3's lightning is (this is why you're viewing layer 3 and not 4). If you think you messed up on either of these steps, you can simply undo--GIMP supports a lot of undos.
Right click, go to IMAGE, MODE, then INDEXED. 255 colors should be more than enough. SAVE AS, change the name if you want, but make the extension .gif if it isn't already. Even if it was already a .gif and had the name you still want it to have, you still need to SAVE AS for the next few steps.
If it asks you to crop layers, agree. Save as animation. When you reach a screen where you can add a comment, go to where it says how many milliseconds to show each frame and change that to 50. Also, where it says "Frame Disposal where Unspecified," set it to "One frame per layer (replace)".
CLOSE the image, then open it back up. This renames all the frames so that they're numbered, show how long they last, AND so that they replace the previous frame. Go to Frame 1 and change it to something like 1500ms (1.5 seconds), then Frame 5 to something like 1000ms (1 second). That's it!
In order to get here, four people must nominate your image. This basically means quoting it and saying "nominated".
Tesseract doesn't have a problem with nominations (and this is copypasted from his post) but apparently some people do for some reason, so if something you nominate gets added and your post is nothing but the word "nominated", try to delete it.
The best of thread is a distinction reserved only for SUPER COOL DUDES, so only nominate something if its PRETTY MUCH EXTREMELY AWESOME
Originally Posted by thenacho
Here ya go!
Originally Posted by MayorSillyBiscuits
HOPY SHIT this dog is nuts
Originally Posted by Blaperile
Oh really? Cool, I didn't know that. Well, boys and girls who haven't seen it yet, prepare yourself...
Originally Posted by Unclever title
And the obligatory Vriskle, had some errors with this that I'm not sure if I want to fix.
I think I will keep my distance from the Vriskle... indeed I will keep all of the distance. All of it.
*Hightailin' it out of here!*
Originally Posted by Gana0
That one was a lot harder than I expected
Originally Posted by Chonks
I outlet my RAGE in the form of creativity!
Originally Posted by Ripcord
Originally Posted by Drache
I realize these aren't perfect, but I've spent enough time on these already.
The kids cosplaying characters Phoenix Wright. Proper sprite colors used as best I could.
Dave as Godot:
John as Pheonix:
Jade as Maya:
Rose as Franziska
With bow:
Sans-bow:
Feel free to improve upon.
Originally Posted by Sega
Originally Posted by Sega
空虚「インフレーションスクウェア !!!
爆符「メガフレア」 !!!
Originally Posted by Miff
Made this thing:
Now I'm going to bed.
Originally Posted by Samael
Being disgraced, Jack removed his ring and admitted defeat
looks like barak obana really DID bail us out of this jam.
Originally Posted by RLabs
Originally Posted by The One Guy
This is what happens when I'm trying to think of an idea with the latest update sitting in front of me.
Originally Posted by Bommster
in my dreams ,, i am the HAIR OF STairs.......................
its me
Originally Posted by Aerobic Robot
YOU CAN DO IT TAVROS
Originally Posted by carbon-14
Why did I spend like 2 hours on this
Originally Posted by The talented ladies and gentlemen of the image manip thread. Compiled kindly by spacetimeCounselor
So remember everybody was making Squiddle manips?
Originally Posted by Gana0
GA: Youre Not Really Understanding The Magnitude Of His Role
GA: He Is Not Responsible For Just One Aspect Of The Universe You Create
GA: Hes Responsible For All Of Them
GA: Bilious Slick Is Your Universe
Originally Posted by ubiquitousUloid
I'm just gonna leave this here.....
Originally Posted by Tesseract
CC: Sollux.
CC: We are t)(roug)(.
TA:
Originally Posted by Differential
Made this:
And then this:
For all the Discussion Thread people. c:
Originally Posted by Sega
WWHAT THE FUCK IS THIS
Originally Posted by Ripcord
Well I started making this. Then I was ninja'd, and then Kanaya died.
OH WELL
Originally Posted by Missy
Originally Posted by Laservisioncat
It is done.
Originally Posted by Aduross
Originally Posted by Voodoo Kid
Can anyone manip the thrusting Sollux sprite to look like Andrew Hussie?
You rang?
Originally Posted by Radioactive Fishcake
Originally Posted by MayorSillyBiscuits
SUTURE BUDDIES!
Originally Posted by Sega
There's no way that can be right!
Originally Posted by mikash91
Originally Posted by Pigbuster
Originally Posted by mikash91
Just seemed appropriate.
Originally Posted by hoarous
...so I just remembered I made these a while back. I HOPE I'M POSTING TO THE RIGHT THREAD?!
...these were some of my earliest reactions to homestuck, I'm sure these jokes have both been done to death but what hey.
Originally Posted by Doodled
Secondly, lemme help you with that...
Why was this so difficult to do I don't even...
Originally Posted by Sega
Originally Posted by Z1P~PZpQ
Originally Posted by Differential
You rang?
Originally Posted by Tesseract
Lets play "Predict the update"!
Manips below this line can only be shown as links unfortunately, due to the limit of 51 images per post. __________________________________________________ _______________________________________________
It's not a bad start, but there are a few key problems with this piece. The one I noticed right away was the hands. The trolls seem to have hands similar to humans, with five digits, one of them opposable. Here, however, you've given him only 3 digits on each hand, and I'm not sure if the absence of an actual 'hand' was a stylistic choice or an oversight. I could see this being a stylistic choice, given that Andrew's most recent previous works, "Problem Sleuth", made use of hands very similar to those. However in his case, the digits were of similar size and had a certain curvature to them. Here, you've got very straight, spread out fingers.
There are some other questionable design choices, but I'll address the ones that don't work for the character first. The most obvious one is the design on his shirt. If you look closely, the lines and dots on the "Cancer" sign are actually only connected on one end, with a space in between towards the middle. Here, you've got it completely connected, forming a solid object. Also, the "Cancer" sign in Homestuck at least has it's circular parts being connected to the lines towards the top, rather than at the center. They should be being pushed inwards, so to speak.
The only other thing I really noticed was that you made Karkat's horns much too narrow. Karkat's horns are notable for being rather round and stubby. Here you've got them rather narrow and small, more like Sollux's. Given your minimalist style, it would be best to avoid that kind of potential confusion in the future by making it very clear which troll you're drawing by the horns.
It's not a bad start, but there are a few key problems with this piece. The one I noticed right away was the hands. The trolls seem to have hands similar to humans, with five digits, one of them opposable. Here, however, you've given him only 3 digits on each hand, and I'm not sure if the absence of an actual 'hand' was a stylistic choice or an oversight. I could see this being a stylistic choice, given that Andrew's most recent previous works, "Problem Sleuth", made use of hands very similar to those. However in his case, the digits were of similar size and had a certain curvature to them. Here, you've got very straight, spread out fingers.
There are some other questionable design choices, but I'll address the ones that don't work for the character first. The most obvious one is the design on his shirt. If you look closely, the lines and dots on the "Cancer" sign are actually only connected on one end, with a space in between towards the middle. Here, you've got it completely connected, forming a solid object. Also, the "Cancer" sign in Homestuck at least has it's circular parts being connected to the lines towards the top, rather than at the center. They should be being pushed inwards, so to speak.
The only other thing I really noticed was that you made Karkat's horns much too narrow. Karkat's horns are notable for being rather round and stubby. Here you've got them rather narrow and small, more like Sollux's. Given your minimalist style, it would be best to avoid that kind of potential confusion in the future by making it very clear which troll you're drawing by the horns.
It's not a bad start, but there are a few key problems with this piece. The one I noticed right away was the hands. The trolls seem to have hands similar to humans, with five digits, one of them opposable. Here, however, you've given him only 3 digits on each hand, and I'm not sure if the absence of an actual 'hand' was a stylistic choice or an oversight. I could see this being a stylistic choice, given that Andrew's most recent previous works, "Problem Sleuth", made use of hands very similar to those. However in his case, the digits were of similar size and had a certain curvature to them. Here, you've got very straight, spread out fingers.
There are some other questionable design choices, but I'll address the ones that don't work for the character first. The most obvious one is the design on his shirt. If you look closely, the lines and dots on the "Cancer" sign are actually only connected on one end, with a space in between towards the middle. Here, you've got it completely connected, forming a solid object. Also, the "Cancer" sign in Homestuck at least has it's circular parts being connected to the lines towards the top, rather than at the center. They should be being pushed inwards, so to speak.
The only other thing I really noticed was that you made Karkat's horns much too narrow. Karkat's horns are notable for being rather round and stubby. Here you've got them rather narrow and small, more like Sollux's. Given your minimalist style, it would be best to avoid that kind of potential confusion in the future by making it very clear which troll you're drawing by the horns.
It's not a bad start, but there are a few key problems with this piece. The one I noticed right away was the hands. The trolls seem to have hands similar to humans, with five digits, one of them opposable. Here, however, you've given him only 3 digits on each hand, and I'm not sure if the absence of an actual 'hand' was a stylistic choice or an oversight. I could see this being a stylistic choice, given that Andrew's most recent previous works, "Problem Sleuth", made use of hands very similar to those. However in his case, the digits were of similar size and had a certain curvature to them. Here, you've got very straight, spread out fingers.
There are some other questionable design choices, but I'll address the ones that don't work for the character first. The most obvious one is the design on his shirt. If you look closely, the lines and dots on the "Cancer" sign are actually only connected on one end, with a space in between towards the middle. Here, you've got it completely connected, forming a solid object. Also, the "Cancer" sign in Homestuck at least has it's circular parts being connected to the lines towards the top, rather than at the center. They should be being pushed inwards, so to speak.
The only other thing I really noticed was that you made Karkat's horns much too narrow. Karkat's horns are notable for being rather round and stubby. Here you've got them rather narrow and small, more like Sollux's. Given your minimalist style, it would be best to avoid that kind of potential confusion in the future by making it very clear which troll you're drawing by the horns.
It's not a bad start, but there are a few key problems with this piece. The one I noticed right away was the hands. The trolls seem to have hands similar to humans, with five digits, one of them opposable. Here, however, you've given him only 3 digits on each hand, and I'm not sure if the absence of an actual 'hand' was a stylistic choice or an oversight. I could see this being a stylistic choice, given that Andrew's most recent previous works, "Problem Sleuth", made use of hands very similar to those. However in his case, the digits were of similar size and had a certain curvature to them. Here, you've got very straight, spread out fingers.
There are some other questionable design choices, but I'll address the ones that don't work for the character first. The most obvious one is the design on his shirt. If you look closely, the lines and dots on the "Cancer" sign are actually only connected on one end, with a space in between towards the middle. Here, you've got it completely connected, forming a solid object. Also, the "Cancer" sign in Homestuck at least has it's circular parts being connected to the lines towards the top, rather than at the center. They should be being pushed inwards, so to speak.
The only other thing I really noticed was that you made Karkat's horns much too narrow. Karkat's horns are notable for being rather round and stubby. Here you've got them rather narrow and small, more like Sollux's. Given your minimalist style, it would be best to avoid that kind of potential confusion in the future by making it very clear which troll you're drawing by the horns.
Well, it was inevitable.
I generated so much suspense that they absolutely had to nominate it to fit in with the coolkid crowd.
Bam, done.
Also:
Originally Posted by lexavian
Omni5 kicks ass. Can't wait to be a member.
Bam, done.
And remember kids, certified member is a very prestigious rank that can only be achieved under these criteria:
-Has seen the thread.
-Can successfully add banner to sig.
Well, it was inevitable.
I generated so much suspense that they absolutely had to nominate it to fit in with the coolkid crowd.
Bam, done.
Also:
Originally Posted by lexavian
Omni5 kicks ass. Can't wait to be a member.
Bam, done.
And remember kids, certified member is a very prestigious rank that can only be achieved under these criteria:
-Has seen the thread.
-Can successfully add banner to sig.
...oh. Now I feel a tad stupid. Oh well, it doesn't matter. Because I'm now *Legend of Zelda item music here* an official member!
Avatar by me, scratchified by ashdenej.
My chumhandle is abasedVision
Threads of Awesomeness:
Originally Posted by Cervos
Let's not forget that these Dream bubbles are being glubbed in the furthest ring, where Time is like a dirty whore who ironically never puts out.
Well, it was inevitable.
I generated so much suspense that they absolutely had to nominate it to fit in with the coolkid crowd.
Bam, done.
Also:
Originally Posted by lexavian
Omni5 kicks ass. Can't wait to be a member.
Bam, done.
And remember kids, certified member is a very prestigious rank that can only be achieved under these criteria:
-Has seen the thread.
-Can successfully add banner to sig.
...oh. Now I feel a tad stupid. Oh well, it doesn't matter. Because I'm now *Legend of Zelda item music here* an official member!
Don't worry about it, I guess that's kinda my fault for making it seem like we have some sort of elite echelon of master manippers.
Uhmm, I have a not-so-important request? Someone inadvertantly mentioned fort in another thread and I would really like to post a relevant MSPA fort image in response. Can someone take a picture of a children's bunkbed with terezi in the bottom pretending it's a fort or something? Anything is fine. I'm not at a computer so I can't do it.
Avatar by me, scratchified by ashdenej.
My chumhandle is abasedVision
Threads of Awesomeness:
Originally Posted by Cervos
Let's not forget that these Dream bubbles are being glubbed in the furthest ring, where Time is like a dirty whore who ironically never puts out.
Damn, this secret project I'm doing is taking long. I'm planning to post it by my 10.000th post, which according to my calculations should be somewhere end of July, beginning of August 2013 (I have 5150 posts at this point, but I have already been going for 3 months or so)
Theories
Liv Tyler's whole journey will be shown in a flash called [S] Terry: Fast forward to Liv while a fast version of "How Do I" plays. Semi-confirmed.
While Caliborn is talking to this person at the other side of the terminal, this person at one point says: “Hey. Caliborn. Don’t turn your back on the body.”
Caliborn turns around and notices Gamzee’s body is gone.
honk
And so it begins again. Semi-confirmed.
GCat just teleported Roxy to the Condesce.Confirmed
Calliope and uu are living on B2 Earth, or maybe a doomed timeline version of it where the Red Miles didn't reach it (yet).
uu will write the LE code to make himself immortal.
A Frog Temple for Calliope and uu is somewhere in the Trolls' meteor somehow.
Gamzee went into hiding so he could protect the corpses of the Trolls of being destroyed so he could prototype them in B2.
GCat is Calliope's jUjU, in case the Cherubs are living on B2 Earth, late into the future. It would make a bit of sense, since First Guardians have Lime coloured features (teleportation powers, tongue, etc.) which Calliope has as blood colour. Also, Calliope is a Hero of Space and Heroes of Space usually have connections to their First Guardian.
B2 Earth is not going to get destroyed by the Red Miles since the Condesce, GCat, Lil Cal and Lil Seb are still there.
Dad will find Jane's body on Derse and a callback is made to Grandpa Harley finding Dream Jane's body. Not knowing how to escape, Dad panics. But then, B2 Jade comes flying along on a ship and offers him a ride and he gets shipped somewhere. Perhaps shipped with someone else. Perhaps he gets shipped with B2 Rose.