Image Manipulation 9: This thread is now Dave and can't be not ironic

[DJ-P0N3]

Bahaha, not really.
Fun is certainly allowed in this thread, but some rules will be laid down!


So let me lay down these new rules my brothas!

RULES OF NOMINATIONS:
1) The nominations must have reasons, this can be 1-3 sentences long.
2) Saying 'what he said' is not a legit nom and is more like a bad comeback
3) Image Manip series will becomes memes after five Image Manips of a categorizable variety. How will this work? Wait and see.
4) Complaining about this and trying to fight it is rude and unnecessary, I know I am a hardass when it comes to these things, no need to remind me
5) Keep track of nominations, overnomming is an avoidable thing.

PREVIOUS THREADS:
IMAGE MANIPULATION THREAD : What's the ??, ??
IMAGE MANIPULATION 2: This One Goes Out to All the Ladies
IMAGE MANIPULATION 3: An Itch to Scratch
IMAGE MANIPULATION 4: the 1 that came after the other 3
IMAGE MANIPULATION 5: Layer Transparent
Image Manipulation 6: Sovereign [S]layer of Ponie[S]
IMAGE MANIPULATION 7: Starting from scratch
Image Manipulation 8: tAVROS' TURN

FAQ:
To be made

[DJ-P0N3]

TEMPLATES:

Normal Sprites (from Anti)

Alterniabound Sprites (from Tinsin)

Alterniabound Walkaround Sprites (from Supercar Gautier)

bABYDAVE

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wHATS IN THE BOX JACK,

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wHY SO WORRYSOME, kARKAT,

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wHATS ON THE SCREEN, kARKAT,

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wHATS ON THE SCREEN, vRISKA,

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wHATS ON THE SCREEN SOLLUX,

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bOY THERE ARE A LOT OF SCREENS, tHIS ONE IS KANAYA,

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tHE BEST TEMPLATE EVER,

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wHATS THE DEVELOPMENT TEREZI,

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wHAT ARE YOU GENOCIDING VRISKA,

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pASSING NOTES, tEREZI?

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wHO YOU SMOOCHING JOHN,

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dONT LEAVE EM HANGING JOHN,

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wHATCHA HOLDING, eRIDAN,

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aNOTHER GREAT TEMPLATE,

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wHATCHA HOLDING KANAYA,

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Who are ya dispatching John?

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hOWS IT TASTE TEREZI,

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pOUNCEGREET,

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jACK LURKS,

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sO DOES EQUIUS,

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hONK,

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wATCHA HIDING KANAYA,

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wHATCHA KICKING JOHN,

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jADE WHY ARE YOU GRUMPY,

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lOTS MORE SPRITES,

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oTHER ONES THAT I CANT LIST,

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Who ya smoochin', Vriska?
Why so meta, Troll Andrew?
Watcha shooting, Eridan?
Gamzee: Get a Haircut
THIS IS STUPID
What's on the screen, Karkat? (#4)
Watcha thinking about, Tavros? (Small version)
What manner of creature is emerging from the sea, Eridan?
Watcha eatin', Gl'bgolyb?
What's DISTACTING you, Hella Jeff?
What's breaking Trollian?
END OF THREAD
Jack puts on a puppet show
Warning: NSFW
Watcha giving alcohol to, Rose's mom?
Watcha doodling, Jack? (part 1)
Watcha doodling, Jack? (part 2)
HAT TOWER
Whatcha holding, WV?
Who's punching you, Jack?
HoNk x12 cOmBo
Who are you walloping, Terezi?
Whatcha boot'ing, vriska?
BABYKANAYA
Eridan: Lurk.
Nepeta: Lurk.
Whatcha shankin' Bec Noir?
THE ONE AND ONLY SENATOR LEMONSNOUT, OMNISCIENT HOST OF THE GREAT DOC SNOUT
Whatcha derpin' about, John?

(tHANKS FOR WALLIARD, fOR DOING THIS LIST,

mAKING THINGS SCRATCHY,

Have you ever thought to yourself, man I wish I had an awesome scratch avatar like all the cool kids
i guess they're kind of retro now or something but that's okay i guess
WELL NOW YOU CAN, THANKS TO TESSERACT'S TOTALLY RAD TUTORIAL

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How to make the First Guardian effect:

(Doc Scratch Sprite here)

Frame 1:

First and most obviously, you need a sprite. You may or may not want to remove certain facial features.

If you're wondering, Doc Scratch's colors are white, #BDBDBD, #08FF4A, and #19A519, though you'll probably end up adding different shades of gray. Becquerel is just white with a black outline.

Make sure to leave lots of space around the sprite.



Frame 2:

Make a copy of frame 1 and fill it completely with black. Add yellow lightning around the edges. It's much easier and will probably look better if you copy the lightning from frame 2 of the Doc Scratch sprite linked above rather than drawing it yourself.



Frame 3:

More lightning, in the same spots as the lightning in the previous frame. This time use the normal sprite you made in frame 1 rather than the black one from frame 2.



Frame 4:

More lightning effect, using the normal sprite.



Frame 5:

The exact same thing as frame 1.



Frame 6:

Make a copy of the main sprite, scale to 105%, and fill with white. As with all image manipulations, it helps if there is no anti-aliasing.



Frame 7:

In-comic, this is a transparent (I haven't bothered to figure out the opacity) version of Frame 6 on top of a black sprite. However, if you want to save headaches, it's usually better to do it a different way. Create a copy of the original sprite and fill with #292929. Now select the pixels in frame 7 and remove from the selection all the pixels in frame 6. Fill the selection with black. This normally will only affect a few pixels around the edges of the sprite.

Or if you aren't obsessive about this you can just fill the sprite with #292929 and be done with it. But if you're like me, and you probably are, you have to do it perfectly.



Frame 8:

This is where the hard part starts. Make another copy of the original sprite, scale to 108%, and again it helps a lot if there is no anti-aliasing.

Now you're going to need to find a flicker effect. This is often extremely annoying! It's pretty hard to piece together the actual effect, and even harder if you're not using a smaller sprite like Doc Snout. I personally use the one here.

Use the sprite you just scaled up to make a cutout of the first frame of this animation.



Frame 9:

Create yet another copy of the first layer, scale to 105%. Use this to cut out frame 2 of the flicker animation.



Frame 10:

New copy don't scale frame 3 cutout.



Frame 11:

Keep doing what you've been doing.



Frame 12:

Yep.



Frame 13:

Do the same thing again, except this time set the opacity to 67%. Create another copy of the original sprite underneath.



Frame 14:

Do the flicker effect one last time, this time set the opacity to 33%. Create a copy of the original sprite like you did in Frame 13.



Now crop the image, and make sure you didn't cut off anything or you'll have to do all that over again.

Set the delay for all frames to .05 seconds, except for frames 1 and 5. These can have any delay you want. For reference, Doc Scratch's introduction panel uses 1 second for both, Doc Snout uses 2 seconds for both, and the wiki uses 3.5 and 4.5 seconds.



And you're done! Yay.

ALTERNATE TUTORIAL BY ARCANA

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GIMP TUTORIAL BY STROKEND

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The first thing you need is the image you want to scratchify. It helps to either give it a solid-colored background, or to remove a background. Right click the image, go to IMAGE, then MODE, then click RGB so that you can use all colors available.

The second thing you need is the green lightning, or whatever else you're using to make your flashy effect. I have it ripped and stored at http://i52.tinypic.com/4l1xtu.gif for your convenience.

Now, make sure your picture has enough empty space to support the growth that will be applied to three of the frames--if you aren't sure if it's big enough, make it bigger just in case. You can do this by right clicking the image, going down to IMAGE, and then clicking canvas size. The layers will not change along with it, so make sure you right click the layer and then click "Layer to image size". This will leave some blank space that may be a different color than the background you want--if it does, just use the eyedropper (on the left) to pick up the background color, and the paint bucket (also on the left) to fill it in. Something to keep in mind is that if your image has a side (top and bottom included) cut off, you DON'T want to leave blank space beyond that side. Also keep in mind that this ruins it if the image is cut off on two opposite sides--try to find one that at most has a corner cut off (ie. left and bottom).

The next step is to duplicate the layer until it says "Copy #12". Since the first two layers don't have those numbers, #12 is actually frame 14, which is what you need (unless you're already a pro at scratching and enjoy making longer flashy fazes). To help, you can go through the frames and rename them Frame 1-14; this will especially help on frames I'll be telling you to jump to in this tutorial.

Once you're ready to start editing the layers, you can follow the tutorials that guide you frame by frame or use my 'shortcuts.' Since you're reading this, I guess you want the shortcuts.

Turn off view (they eyeball on the right window) for all layers. It's not necessary, but it REALLY helps you out here. A quick way to turn them all off is to click the top or bottom layer, hit left a few times, then hit space-down-space-down (replace down with up if you clicked the bottom layer) until you hide them all.

Turn frame six on, then right-click on it on the right window. Click on "Scale Layer." Make sure the chain is connected--if it's severed, click it to connect it. Next, look at the dropdown box. By default it's probably "Pixels." Change it to "Percent." Change the width to 105 and then click on the height box. You may get a funky value just a little bit above or below 105--don't worry. It's just fine. Click on "Scale" and then center the layer (use the move tool on it--you can also select the image window once you select the move tool and then use the arrow keys to move it pixel by pixel. This is useful for counting how far it is from side to side and top to bottom, so that you can center it if it isn't centered by default).

When centering images with sides cut off, keep in mind that for those sides, being 'centered' means being against the canvas edge. For example, if the bottom is cut off, move it up until the bottom aligns with the bottom of the area where you can actually see the layer at (since below there it turns invisible). You may need to zoom in to get it pixel perfect. "Corner Cut" images are actually easiest here--no counting, just side matching.

Turn frame 6 invisible (if you're following my advice on this, always turn inactive layers invisible unless I say otherwise), then turn frame 8 visible (again, active layers become visible unless otherwise stated). Do the same thing you did with frame 6, only this time set the percent to 108 instead of 105.

Repeat with frame 9 at 105%.

If you want, you can add a tiny suffix to layers 6, 8, and 9--"Frame 6-105" "Frame 8-108" and "Frame 9-105" for example. This helps you recognize layers that you need to ignore on the next step.

Go to frame 2 (visibility rules apply here so you can see it) and use the COLOR SELECT TOOL on the left window (it's a hand pointing at either a red square or green square on a square tower of green, red, blue from bottom to top) on the background (even if the background is transparancy). Set your foreground color to black if it isn't already--you can do so by clicking on it and moving the sliders around, or by clicking the tiny black and white squares right next to the bigger color squares. Right click the image, go to select, and then INVERT. This will make you select everything BUT the background. Click the pencil icon (or hit N), set the 'brush' to Circle 19, and scale to 10. This helps you color it in REALLY fast--just color the whole thing. Since you only selected the thing you're scratchefying, nothing else gets colored

Keeping that area selected, 'activate' frame 8. Now, switch over to your GREEN LIGHTNING (you should have both pictures opened). Select all (CTRL+A), then click on frame 3 of it. Copy it (CTRL+C) Go back to your scratching image, and click on the upper left brush tool in the bottom of the right window. It'll be the green lightning. Set your pencil scale to 1 and see if the rectangle covers the whole of your scratch item (NOT the background, just the image). If it doesn't try scale of 2--and keep upping it by one until it's big enough. You SHOULD be able to make it big enough, otherwise your image is too big.

Once you make it big enough, activate layer 10 (yes, without having put lightning on layer , find a 'center point' (ie. the tip of something like a fang or tie) where you will click for each lightning application. (Note: if you don't actually click on frame 10 in the right window, you'll draw on whichever layer is selected. Make sure you don't do that. If you DO, though, you can simply undo it, fortunately)

Activate layer 11, COPY green lightning's layer 4, click on the center point on the scratch picture.

Activate layer 12, copy green lightning's layer 1 ("background"), click the center point of the scratch picture.

Activate layer 13, copy green lightning's layer 2. Set pencil opacity to 67, click on the center point of the scratch picture.

Activate layer 14, copy green lightning's layer 3. Set pencil opacity to 33, click on center point of the picture.

Activate layer 8. COLOR SELECT the background, invert selection. Copy green lightning's layer 1, set opacity to 100. Click scratch picture's center point. It wont be the same pixel as the other layers, but that doesn't matter.

Activate layer 9. Color select the background, invert selection. Copy green lightning's layer 2, click scratch picture's center point. Again, different pixel, but that's okay.

Activate layer 6. Do NOT deselect, or you'll have to reselect it--since it's the exact same area. Switch to Circle 19 and scale 10 again, set color to white. Color the whole selection.

Activate layer 7, color select background, invert select. Set color hex-value to "292929". Color selection. Activate layer 6, use magic wand (or color select if needed) and CONTROL+click the white. Activate layer 7 again and color the selection black.

Activate layer 2, set brush to Circle 3, set scale to 75, and edit the color. Increase RED and GREEN scales to max, and lower BLUE to minimum. This gives you yellow for the lightning--just draw it in place around the edges where you think it'd look neat.

Click layer 3 but do NOT make it visible--you should be seeing layer 2 still. Try drawing over the lightning, perhaps off of it a little, and bigger.

Activate layer 3 and click on layer 4. Draw 'broken' bits of lightning where layer 3's lightning is (this is why you're viewing layer 3 and not 4). If you think you messed up on either of these steps, you can simply undo--GIMP supports a lot of undos.

Right click, go to IMAGE, MODE, then INDEXED. 255 colors should be more than enough. SAVE AS, change the name if you want, but make the extension .gif if it isn't already. Even if it was already a .gif and had the name you still want it to have, you still need to SAVE AS for the next few steps.

If it asks you to crop layers, agree. Save as animation. When you reach a screen where you can add a comment, go to where it says how many milliseconds to show each frame and change that to 50. Also, where it says "Frame Disposal where Unspecified," set it to "One frame per layer (replace)".

CLOSE the image, then open it back up. This renames all the frames so that they're numbered, show how long they last, AND so that they replace the previous frame. Go to Frame 1 and change it to something like 1500ms (1.5 seconds), then Frame 5 to something like 1000ms (1 second). That's it!

GIMP VIDEO TUTORIAL BY UNDERLYINGAUGMENT

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(To be de-tavros'd later)

[DJ-P0N3]

IMAGE MANIPS BEST OF THREAD
IT'S LIKE CATCHING A SUPER FISH

The Aradia Cannon Meme

CONGASTUCK

Rose and her Horrorterrors

Good dog, best host

The Prime Eridan Meme

A W)(ole new world

[Sonic_Boom]

Um...
I'll just leave this here then?

It's kinda big so I spoiler'd it.

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It's meant to be Notch from Minecraft if the creeper didn't give it away.

Also I made this (based off Johns god tier sprite), which is an image manip, right?


*relurks*

Edit: If you want I can repost this to further on in the thread if you want

[autoglassmasterclass]

Alright, here's what I've got. I'm just copypasting it right now, so pay no mind if it just cuts off somewhere or if the BBcode is fucked up. I'm not even sure what some of this is about, to be honest.

Post 1

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Welcome to the tenth installation of the award-winning Image Manipulation franchise! This is the place for MSPA-themed manips; edited images from the comic and outside images edited with an MSPA theme are fine. Sprite edits are welcomed so long as they are of existing characters; any edits based on your own characters most likely belong in the Trollslum thread.










PREVIOUS THREADS
IMAGE MANIPULATION THREA What's the ??, ??
IMAGE MANIPULATION 2: This One Goes Out to All the Ladies
IMAGE MANIPULATION 3: An Itch to Scratch
IMAGE MANIPULATION 4: the 1 that came after the other 3
IMAGE MANIPULATION 5: Layer Transparent
Image Manipulation 6: Sovereign [S]layer of Ponie[S]
IMAGE MANIPULATION 7: Starting from scratch.










PROMOTIONAL BANNERS
Promotional banners to place in your sig!

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MAKE SOME BANNERS PEOPLE

FAQ

Q: DUDE SO I WAS WONDERING WHAT I COULD DO TO BE A CERTIFIED MEMBER SO WHAT CAN I DO TO BE A CERTIFIED MEMBER

A: YOU ARE A CERTIFIED MEMBER

Q: OK COOL, WE COOL HERE?

A: YEAH

Q: SO UH WHAT IS EVEN UP WITH THIS NEW BEST OF THREAD OR WHATEVER

A: I DUNNO DUDE TRY SCROLLING DOWN

Q: SO LIKE I WAS JUST ABOUT TO SAVE THIS IMAGE AND THEN I LIKE SPONTANEOUSLY GAVE IN TO VIOLENT EYE MUSCLE SPASMS AND DIED FROM TRAUMA AND INTERNAL HEMORRHAGING

A: OK DUDE WHAT YOU HAVE TO DO FOR THIS ONE IS YOU HAVE TO SAVE IT IS A .PNG OR MAYBE A .GIF IF YOU'RE FEELING LUCKY DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES SAVE IT AS A .JPEG THIS WILL PROBABLY MELT YOUR CAPILLARIES

Q: DOES THIS BELONG IN THIS THREAD?????????

A: IT ABSOLUTELY DOES PROBABLY I MEAN I DUNNO YOU MIGHT HAVE TO CHECK WITH THIS AUDIO RECORDING

[CENTER]TEMPLATES:

Normal sprites (from Alterniabound sprites (from tinsin)

Some Alterniabound stuff (from Supercar Gautier)

WE ARE LOOKING FOR MORE SPRITEDUMPS. IF YOU HAVE MADE A SPRITEDUMP OR KNOW SOMEONE WHO HAS MADE A SPRITEDUMP, WE NEED YOUR HELP.

Babydave: Cling to Image Manip thread for all of time.

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What's in the box, Jack?

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What's gotcha worried, Karkat?

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What's on the screen, Karkat?

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What's on the screen, Vriska?

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What's on the screen, Sollux?

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What's on the screen, Kanaya?

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Whatcha thinkin' about, Tavros?

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What's the SHOCKING DEVELOPMENT, Terezi?

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Whatcha genocidin', Vriska?

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Passin' notes, Terezi?

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Who ya smoochin', John?

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Don't leave 'em hanging, John!

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Whatcha holdin', Eridan?

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Who's gotcha, Tavros?

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Whatcha just extract, Kanaya?

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Whatcha dispatchin', John?

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How's it taste, Terezi?

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Whatcha pouncegreetin', Nepeta?

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Where're ya lurkin', Jack?

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Where're ya lurkin', Equius?

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Whatcha honkin' at, Gamzee?

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Whatcha concealin', Kanaya?

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Whatcha kickin' in the face, John?

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Whatcha so grumpy about, Jade?

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Who ya smoochin', Vriska?

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Why so meta, Troll Andrew?

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Whatcha shootin', Eridan?

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What's yer new haircut, Gamzee?

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What's so gosh darned stupid, shaded Courier?

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What manner of creature is emerging from the sea, Eridan?

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Whatcha eatin', Gl'bgolyb?

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What's gotcha distacted, HJ?

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What's breakin' ya, Trollian?

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Whatcha entertainin', Jack?

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Whatcha so glad about, Manatee? (Warning: NSFW)

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Whatcha offerin' alcohol to, Rose's mom?

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Whatcha doodlin', Jack?

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Whatcha holdin', WV?

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[talkingCabbage]

Okay, here goes. Quick and dirty!


Feferi: Eridan, just w)-(at is t)-(at you are )-(olding???


Feferi: FOR MEE--E??
Eridan: nno fef theyre for solluxx jeez
Feferi: ...
Sollux: 0_O

[autoglassmasterclass]

Post 2

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Who's punchin' ya, Jack?

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Whatcha standin' on, well-adorned guy?

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HoNk x12 cOmBo
Who are you walloping, Terezi?
Whatcha boot'ing, vriska?
BABYKANAYA
Eridan: Lurk.
Nepeta: Lurk.
Whatcha shankin' Bec Noir?
THE ONE AND ONLY SENATOR LEMONSNOUT, OMNISCIENT HOST OF THE GREAT DOC SNOUT
Whatcha derpin' about, John?

END OF THREAD

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(Most of the credit for compiling this list goes to Walliard and MayorSillyBiscuits and whoever else COME ON SPEAK UP)

SCRATCHIFICATION

Have you ever thought to yourself, man I wish I had an awesome scratch avatar like all the cool kids
i guess they're kind of retro now or something but that's okay i guess
WELL NOW YOU CAN, THANKS TO TESSERACT'S TOTALLY RAD TUTORIAL

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How to make the First Guardian effect:

(Doc Scratch Sprite here)

Frame 1:

First and most obviously, you need a sprite. You may or may not want to remove certain facial features.

If you're wondering, Doc Scratch's colors are white, #BDBDBD, #08FF4A, and #19A519, though you'll probably end up adding different shades of gray. Becquerel is just white with a black outline.

Make sure to leave lots of space around the sprite.



Frame 2:

Make a copy of frame 1 and fill it completely with black. Add yellow lightning around the edges. It's much easier and will probably look better if you copy the lightning from frame 2 of the Doc Scratch sprite linked above rather than drawing it yourself.



Frame 3:

More lightning, in the same spots as the lightning in the previous frame. This time use the normal sprite you made in frame 1 rather than the black one from frame 2.



Frame 4:

More lightning effect, using the normal sprite.



Frame 5:

The exact same thing as frame 1.



Frame 6:

Make a copy of the main sprite, scale to 105%, and fill with white. As with all image manipulations, it helps if there is no anti-aliasing.



Frame 7:

In-comic, this is a transparent (I haven't bothered to figure out the opacity) version of Frame 6 on top of a black sprite. However, if you want to save headaches, it's usually better to do it a different way. Create a copy of the original sprite and fill with #292929. Now select the pixels in frame 7 and remove from the selection all the pixels in frame 6. Fill the selection with black. This normally will only affect a few pixels around the edges of the sprite.

Or if you aren't obsessive about this you can just fill the sprite with #292929 and be done with it. But if you're like me, and you probably are, you have to do it perfectly.



Frame 8:

This is where the hard part starts. Make another copy of the original sprite, scale to 108%, and again it helps a lot if there is no anti-aliasing.

Now you're going to need to find a flicker effect. This is often extremely annoying! It's pretty hard to piece together the actual effect, and even harder if you're not using a smaller sprite like Doc Snout. I personally use the one here.

Use the sprite you just scaled up to make a cutout of the first frame of this animation.



Frame 9:

Create yet another copy of the first layer, scale to 105%. Use this to cut out frame 2 of the flicker animation.



Frame 10:

New copy don't scale frame 3 cutout.



Frame 11:

Keep doing what you've been doing.



Frame 12:

Yep.



Frame 13:

Do the same thing again, except this time set the opacity to 67%. Create another copy of the original sprite underneath.



Frame 14:

Do the flicker effect one last time, this time set the opacity to 33%. Create a copy of the original sprite like you did in Frame 13.



Now crop the image, and make sure you didn't cut off anything or you'll have to do all that over again.

Set the delay for all frames to .05 seconds, except for frames 1 and 5. These can have any delay you want. For reference, Doc Scratch's introduction panel uses 1 second for both, Doc Snout uses 2 seconds for both, and the wiki uses 3.5 and 4.5 seconds.



And you're done! Yay.

ALTERNATE TUTORIAL BY ARCANA

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GIMP TUTORIAL BY STROKEND

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The first thing you need is the image you want to scratchify. It helps to either give it a solid-colored background, or to remove a background. Right click the image, go to IMAGE, then MODE, then click RGB so that you can use all colors available.

The second thing you need is the green lightning, or whatever else you're using to make your flashy effect. I have it ripped and stored at http://i52.tinypic.com/4l1xtu.gif for your convenience.

Now, make sure your picture has enough empty space to support the growth that will be applied to three of the frames--if you aren't sure if it's big enough, make it bigger just in case. You can do this by right clicking the image, going down to IMAGE, and then clicking canvas size. The layers will not change along with it, so make sure you right click the layer and then click "Layer to image size". This will leave some blank space that may be a different color than the background you want--if it does, just use the eyedropper (on the left) to pick up the background color, and the paint bucket (also on the left) to fill it in. Something to keep in mind is that if your image has a side (top and bottom included) cut off, you DON'T want to leave blank space beyond that side. Also keep in mind that this ruins it if the image is cut off on two opposite sides--try to find one that at most has a corner cut off (ie. left and bottom).

The next step is to duplicate the layer until it says "Copy #12". Since the first two layers don't have those numbers, #12 is actually frame 14, which is what you need (unless you're already a pro at scratching and enjoy making longer flashy fazes). To help, you can go through the frames and rename them Frame 1-14; this will especially help on frames I'll be telling you to jump to in this tutorial.

Once you're ready to start editing the layers, you can follow the tutorials that guide you frame by frame or use my 'shortcuts.' Since you're reading this, I guess you want the shortcuts.

Turn off view (they eyeball on the right window) for all layers. It's not necessary, but it REALLY helps you out here. A quick way to turn them all off is to click the top or bottom layer, hit left a few times, then hit space-down-space-down (replace down with up if you clicked the bottom layer) until you hide them all.

Turn frame six on, then right-click on it on the right window. Click on "Scale Layer." Make sure the chain is connected--if it's severed, click it to connect it. Next, look at the dropdown box. By default it's probably "Pixels." Change it to "Percent." Change the width to 105 and then click on the height box. You may get a funky value just a little bit above or below 105--don't worry. It's just fine. Click on "Scale" and then center the layer (use the move tool on it--you can also select the image window once you select the move tool and then use the arrow keys to move it pixel by pixel. This is useful for counting how far it is from side to side and top to bottom, so that you can center it if it isn't centered by default).

When centering images with sides cut off, keep in mind that for those sides, being 'centered' means being against the canvas edge. For example, if the bottom is cut off, move it up until the bottom aligns with the bottom of the area where you can actually see the layer at (since below there it turns invisible). You may need to zoom in to get it pixel perfect. "Corner Cut" images are actually easiest here--no counting, just side matching.

Turn frame 6 invisible (if you're following my advice on this, always turn inactive layers invisible unless I say otherwise), then turn frame 8 visible (again, active layers become visible unless otherwise stated). Do the same thing you did with frame 6, only this time set the percent to 108 instead of 105.

Repeat with frame 9 at 105%.

If you want, you can add a tiny suffix to layers 6, 8, and 9--"Frame 6-105" "Frame 8-108" and "Frame 9-105" for example. This helps you recognize layers that you need to ignore on the next step.

Go to frame 2 (visibility rules apply here so you can see it) and use the COLOR SELECT TOOL on the left window (it's a hand pointing at either a red square or green square on a square tower of green, red, blue from bottom to top) on the background (even if the background is transparancy). Set your foreground color to black if it isn't already--you can do so by clicking on it and moving the sliders around, or by clicking the tiny black and white squares right next to the bigger color squares. Right click the image, go to select, and then INVERT. This will make you select everything BUT the background. Click the pencil icon (or hit N), set the 'brush' to Circle 19, and scale to 10. This helps you color it in REALLY fast--just color the whole thing. Since you only selected the thing you're scratchefying, nothing else gets colored

Keeping that area selected, 'activate' frame 8. Now, switch over to your GREEN LIGHTNING (you should have both pictures opened). Select all (CTRL+A), then click on frame 3 of it. Copy it (CTRL+C) Go back to your scratching image, and click on the upper left brush tool in the bottom of the right window. It'll be the green lightning. Set your pencil scale to 1 and see if the rectangle covers the whole of your scratch item (NOT the background, just the image). If it doesn't try scale of 2--and keep upping it by one until it's big enough. You SHOULD be able to make it big enough, otherwise your image is too big.

Once you make it big enough, activate layer 10 (yes, without having put lightning on layer , find a 'center point' (ie. the tip of something like a fang or tie) where you will click for each lightning application. (Note: if you don't actually click on frame 10 in the right window, you'll draw on whichever layer is selected. Make sure you don't do that. If you DO, though, you can simply undo it, fortunately)

Activate layer 11, COPY green lightning's layer 4, click on the center point on the scratch picture.

Activate layer 12, copy green lightning's layer 1 ("background"), click the center point of the scratch picture.

Activate layer 13, copy green lightning's layer 2. Set pencil opacity to 67, click on the center point of the scratch picture.

Activate layer 14, copy green lightning's layer 3. Set pencil opacity to 33, click on center point of the picture.

Activate layer 8. COLOR SELECT the background, invert selection. Copy green lightning's layer 1, set opacity to 100. Click scratch picture's center point. It wont be the same pixel as the other layers, but that doesn't matter.

Activate layer 9. Color select the background, invert selection. Copy green lightning's layer 2, click scratch picture's center point. Again, different pixel, but that's okay.

Activate layer 6. Do NOT deselect, or you'll have to reselect it--since it's the exact same area. Switch to Circle 19 and scale 10 again, set color to white. Color the whole selection.

Activate layer 7, color select background, invert select. Set color hex-value to "292929". Color selection. Activate layer 6, use magic wand (or color select if needed) and CONTROL+click the white. Activate layer 7 again and color the selection black.

Activate layer 2, set brush to Circle 3, set scale to 75, and edit the color. Increase RED and GREEN scales to max, and lower BLUE to minimum. This gives you yellow for the lightning--just draw it in place around the edges where you think it'd look neat.

Click layer 3 but do NOT make it visible--you should be seeing layer 2 still. Try drawing over the lightning, perhaps off of it a little, and bigger.

Activate layer 3 and click on layer 4. Draw 'broken' bits of lightning where layer 3's lightning is (this is why you're viewing layer 3 and not 4). If you think you messed up on either of these steps, you can simply undo--GIMP supports a lot of undos.

Right click, go to IMAGE, MODE, then INDEXED. 255 colors should be more than enough. SAVE AS, change the name if you want, but make the extension .gif if it isn't already. Even if it was already a .gif and had the name you still want it to have, you still need to SAVE AS for the next few steps.

If it asks you to crop layers, agree. Save as animation. When you reach a screen where you can add a comment, go to where it says how many milliseconds to show each frame and change that to 50. Also, where it says "Frame Disposal where Unspecified," set it to "One frame per layer (replace)".

CLOSE the image, then open it back up. This renames all the frames so that they're numbered, show how long they last, AND so that they replace the previous frame. Go to Frame 1 and change it to something like 1500ms (1.5 seconds), then Frame 5 to something like 1000ms (1 second). That's it!

GIMP VIDEO TUTORIAL BY UNDERLYINGAUGMENT

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[/CENTER]

And I guess this leaves the third for the best of thread. In my draft I had two best of threads in case it got crowded, then the two-part Best of First Thread (my plan was to have nominations PMed to me, so this probably wouldn't work anyway), and finally the Beast of Thread (the best manipulation in the entire thread, voted for at the very end; this could still fit in, and I can make the medal image thing if you want). Anyways, have a ball with it.

I'll probably swing by and clean this up tomorrow, but maybe it can serve as a placeholder till then.

[KawaiiMelon]

...

*static*

[Mubbles]

Everyone loves puella magi crossovers!

fine i admit it this was just so i could draw dave in a dress

[KawaiiMelon]

but

did

why

didn't you

already

post

what

AUGH

[Mubbles]

It was interrupting the op.
:/

[Cyborg771]

Because drawing in hero mode is fun!

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I'd be kind of amazed if this had never been made before. Still fun though.

[trilbyulatingDungeoneer]

Loving the title of this thread, btw. XD

Now to rustle up some kickass manips P:

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also I know I joke, but eismo's pretty kickass as a thread-runner. at least he keeps tabs on things.

[autoglassmasterclass]

Oh look at that, now you have four OPs. Bonus!

[azhdrake]

Because drawing in hero mode is fun!

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I'd be kind of amazed if this had never been made before. Still fun though.

Oh my god, this... This is beautiful. I mean, this is one of the better image manips I have seen in a while.
I think that I have to nominate this under the grounds that it is an exceedingly good hero mode, the amount of details shown well still keeping the simplistic style is unbelievable, and also that Legend of Zelda / Homestuck makes me fangasm.

[C4Pottery]

So I'm working on a manip of the Troll Empress and I can't get the horns to look good with the rest of it, anyone want to take a stab at it?

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The Queen of Trolls

Hope someone here plays starcraft!

[Matrix]

Welp, new thread means new sig banner!



also inb4 nineball

[Wacom Guy]

dammit, missed my chance
it's ok though. posting here to enjoy your beautiful art

[The One Guy]

Because drawing in hero mode is fun!

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I'd be kind of amazed if this had never been made before. Still fun though.

Wow, that is really good, so good, it doesn't even seem like a manip, and yet... For this reason, I nominate it.

[DJ-P0N3]

I understand the desire to nominate it, but can we hold off til at least page 3 before we start nomming?

[Cyborg771]

@The One Guy: Haha, yeah. I'm not an "artist". At my best I just trace things. That's why I'm attracted to the manip threads instead of the art threads. Also, something tells me that nomm's not going to count

[The One Guy]

I understand the desire to nominate it, but can we hold off til at least page 3 before we start nomming?

I don't see why we would want to do that; it's not like manips posted after page 3 are somehow better than the ones posted before it. I wasn't expecting to nominate somethig so soon either, but that one deserves it.


Edit:

@The One Guy: Haha, yeah. I'm not an "artist". At my best I just trace things. That's why I'm attracted to the manip threads instead of the art threads. Also, something tells me that nomm's not going to count

I think stating that a manip is of high enough quality that it is nearly indistinguishable from an original work is a good enough reason, but I guess that's ultimately up to Eismo to decide.

[azhdrake]

I also had no intent of nominating on the first page, but that image is simply to perfect. If you want I could re-nominate it again in a few pages, but I don't quite see the point.

[DJ-P0N3]

I'm not saying manips on the first 3 pages won't be worthy of it, but I would like to have three pages of a buffer before we start the nomination business.
Think of it like a game of Team Fortress 2.
You have the countdown before the actual match, and during that time you might mess around briefly, then when the countdown is over the real 'fun' begins. So treat the first three pages like a countdown and the rest like the real game deal!

You can renominate it later if you so desire, but I just like a buffer on these things.
Call it nitpicky, but I did the same thing last time I ran this thread.

[Weeaboo]

Everyone loves puella magi crossovers!

fine i admit it this was just so i could draw dave in a dress

But....but Jade...she can't....

You're a terrible person.